What deadstock fabric is and why we buy it
Deadstock is a word that gets used loosely in fashion. Some brands use it to mean any fabric they've bought in small quantities. The more precise meaning is fabric that was produced for a specific purpose. A brand's order, a mill's own range. And then went unused. It ends up in warehouses, sometimes for years, before someone buys it up.
Where deadstock comes from
The most common sources are cancelled orders and discontinued colourways. A brand places an order for 500 metres of a fabric, then the season changes or the brand folds, and the fabric sits in the mill's warehouse. The mill can't easily sell it through normal channels because the quantities are irregular and the colourways may be specific.
Surplus warehouses. There are several in France, Italy, and Portugal that we know of. Buy up these lots and hold them until a buyer comes along. The fabric is not damaged or substandard. It's simply cloth that didn't reach its original destination.
What it means for the garment
When we make a garment from deadstock fabric, the quantity is fixed. We can't reorder. The corduroy overshirt currently in the shop exists in forty pieces because that's how much fabric we had. This is a real constraint, not a marketing device.
It also means the piece has a slightly different character from something made in a standard production run. The fabric may have been woven for a different purpose. A heavier weight, an unusual colourway. And the garment is designed around what the cloth wants to do, rather than the other way around.
What to check before buying a deadstock piece
Ask about the fabric composition and origin. A reputable seller should be able to tell you both. Ask also about the quantity. How many pieces were made, and whether there's any possibility of restock. If the answer is vague, that's worth noting.
Check the garment carefully for any storage marks or irregularities. Fabric that's been in a warehouse for several years can develop fold lines or slight discolouration. These are usually minor and often wash out, but you should know before you buy.
We'll always note in the product description when a piece is made from deadstock, and we'll tell you the quantity upfront. If you have questions about a specific piece, email us.